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No, it’s inconceivable to put in writing that, the Snowman Trek is far more.
It’s usually offered because the “Legendary Snowman Trek”, as the toughest trek on this planet. It’s even stated that extra climbers have reached the summit of Everest than have accomplished your entire trek. This final assertion is clearly very near the reality. In 2022, the variety of summiters for the roof of the world is approaching 7,000. As Bhutan has solely been open to tourism since 1974, and solely in dribs and drabs, if we focus solely on the Snowman trek, with 30 folks per yr managing to achieve each ends of the trek, we’re a good distance from the Everest figures.
However what makes this trek so difficult?
The variety of days, isolation, and altitude are components to be taken into consideration as with many different Himalayan journeys. So, why so little success on this one? The reply is sort of easy, trivial some would say: the climate.
Too early, the monsoon will put numerous trails to the check and should cowl some passes over 5000m with snow. Too late and the slightest melancholy coming from the Bay of Bengal will block all of the passes. This trek can generally be seen as an incredible Himalayan lottery.
When you have in mind the relentless terrain information, the Snowman Trek stays one of many journeys that any Himalayan lover can dream of, a long-distance trek to find a rustic on foot. All that is still is for you to choose, that of the top level of your trek. Certainly, there are two branches which can be recognised as Snowman Trek. The primary one is within the east and results in the Bhumthang area and the second is within the south in direction of Nikachhu and favours the outdated glacial valleys the place a myriad lakes bloom.
As in all places on this planet, roads are progressing, as is electrical energy, and one should come to phrases with the truth that nothing is carved in stone. Sure modernity permits the inhabitants of essentially the most distant valleys of the Himalayas to get pleasure from a sure consolation. Nonetheless, this large-scale trek meets all expectations.
Throughout these 24 days of strolling, monotony by no means units in. From 3,200m to greater than 5,000m, it’s in a wealthy vegetal and mineral layering that we evolve. From the densest forests to essentially the most austere moraines, the hiker discovers a panorama that by no means ceases to evolve with every valley and every cross. The itinerary takes us to essentially the most distant villages of this a part of the nation, permitting us to understand the authenticity of Bhutanese tradition.
The Snowman Trek, chopping throughout towering passes, takes us a number of the forgotten villages within the fold of the mighty Himalaya.
Laya is the primary. Right here, the change of surroundings is complete. The Layaps have their very own language, their very own customs and their very own traditions. The ladies put on unusual pointed bamboo hats, solely these of a sure age use them every day. However don’t be pessimistic; the younger are taking on. We should let historical past be made.
As for me, I’ve a smooth spot for the village of Thangza, the remotest of all, the final one earlier than passing the life-saving passes. The one which marks the doorway to the nice glacial cirque of seven,315m Jhomolhari, a village the place solely caravans arriving from Woche provide this hamlet on the finish of the world.
On this late autumn, life is hectic. The ladies thresh the barley ears to get well the grains. The ensuing tsampa (flour) stays the meals mandatory for survival at over 4,000m, as in the entire Himalayan arc. No winnowing right here. As soon as the barley is delivered to the threshing flooring, it should be threshed, then the grains separated and sorted from the husk (the impurities). Then the final motion is to name the wind. That’s to say, whistle to make it rise in energy. This final separation is crucial to get well solely the grains. Bringing the loaded luggage again to the storage place for the winter would be the final effort of the day. And later, the final step, the grains will likely be roasted to grind them. All that is still is to style the flour with its nutty flavour.
It’s, due to this fact, with pleasure that we wander by the completely different hamlets that make up the village of Thangza. Taking part within the native life earlier than returning to the camp is a privilege for the trekkers who’ve dedicated themselves to the Snowman Trek.
Two small partitions shut the valley. A small wood board with a goal is caught within the floor just under them, 150m aside. Customs have an extended life. Certainly, that is the archery stadium that each village in Bhutan has. Even when the bows have advanced (they arrive straight from the USA), the aim is similar: to hit the goal.
Competitions are quite a few and are an excuse to satisfy, to get collectively and to trade from one village to a different. The bets are small, however the winners stay proud.
The yaks are rounded as much as be taken all the way down to the valley. The massive males will handle and are available down in the event that they resolve to, provided that.
However Thangza has one other particular characteristic. That is the place the Snowman Trek will likely be a hit or not. If the subsequent cross is snowed in, trekkers should discover another. In actual fact, there are two. Return to the village of Woche and take a look at a somewhat complicated reduce to affix the monitor that goes to Gasa, hoping that the Gonju cross may be crossed or (and that is much less poetic) name a helicopter. There may be nonetheless the opportunity of spending the entire winter ready for the spring, however there will likely be a somewhat (very) vital extra value.
In 2022, we should acknowledge that the spirit of Tsangpa Gyare has actually been on our aspect. It was this lama who impressed the beginning of the Drukpa Kagyu faith. He’s stated to have heard 9 dragons (druk) within the sky whereas he was in search of the perfect location (within the twelfth century) for his monastery.
Certainly, a caravan of yaks that had simply left their mountain pastures arrived at Thangza just a few days earlier than us. They crossed all of the passes that we should additionally. And with out these excessive bovids, there isn’t any success. Three extra passes of greater than 5,000m to chop, following their tracks. However within the snow, it’s a formidable job. The Snowman Trek stays tough and it’s essential to at all times take into account the ultimate goal. Quite a few lakes are scattered on the finish of the route, the vistas are splendid and the biting chilly eats into the bones.
We left behind us the summits of Jhomolhari and Kangchen Ta (Nice Tiger Mount, 6,840m), however these of Teri Gung (7,125m), Jejekanphu Gang (7,100m), and Gangche Singye (7,085m) are nonetheless seen.
The final summit, Gangkar Puensum (the best unclimbed mountain on this planet (7570m), as a result of climbing is forbidden) and we plunge into the life and vegetation of the decrease valleys. The majestic cedars welcome us with serenity earlier than we discover the primary homes. A tea, a beer, a chunk of cake, and we style with pleasure this small miracle that concluded Bhutan’s well-known Snowman Trek.
Any remorse? We didn’t see any Takin. The mountains beckon. Bhutan nonetheless has many treasures to be found.
Contributed by
Laurent Boiveau
He’s a journalist, photographer, and trekking information who takes a beneficiant take a look at the stressed world.
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