[ad_1]
Within the following interview, mechanical engineer of the aerodrome part of Buyant Ukhaa Worldwide Airport, one of many founders of Horizon Membership, mountaineer A.Battogtokh shared his mountaineering profession and experiences. On Could 9, 2022, he summited the Makalu peak, which is the fifth highest peak on the earth. It’s stated that his want and desires led him to achieve the Makalu peak, the place no Mongolian had climbed earlier than. There are 14 peaks on the earth with a top of greater than 8,000 meters. A.Battogtokh efficiently accomplished the primary ascent of the Mongolian Dream 14 Venture, which goals to lift the Mongolian flag on these peaks.
Throughout the snowy and frosty winter, mountaineers attempt to summit the peaks to refresh their spirits. You have to be one in every of them, proper?
Mountaineers say, “Mountains name us.” Human is animal. Climbing a mountain is an indescribable feeling. Individuals who work and stay in city areas miss that feeling and need to go to the countryside. I at all times intend to go to my hometown and climb a mountain. I’m very interested in nature. On winter weekends, I prefer to hike within the mountains with a backpack and a digicam. I’ve been working as a technician, ornithologist and mechanical engineer on the Civil Aviation Authority and the aerodrome workplace of the Buyant Ukhaa Worldwide Airport since 2003.
Mountaineers are united by their needs and pursuits. When climbing within the mountains, you in all probability have attention-grabbing conversations with individuals who share the identical interest, proper?
The circle of buddies expands as you get to know and speak to folks with related pursuits and needs. After speaking with my fellow hikers, I initiated the Horizon Membership and fashioned an amazing group of people that got here collectively for a similar interest. In 2015, along with Japanese photographer Tetsuro Shimizu, I climbed the snowcapped Tsambagarav Mountain for the primary time. He takes photos of leopards, nature and the distinctive way of life and home options of nomads. Since 1997, he got here to Mongolia to take photos greater than 50 occasions and launched 5 photograph albums. My hometown is in Khovd Province. As a baby, I grew up herding lambs and goats on the slopes of the excessive peaks and on the banks of the Khar Us Lake. Since I used to be younger at the moment, I didn’t go to see and admire the peak of the mountains, however to expertise their magnificence. After settling down in Ulaanbaatar, I at all times miss the mountains and water of my hometown and go there yearly.
I discovered it very attention-grabbing that you just met photographer Tetsuro Shimizu and went to the Tsambagarav. How did you meet him?
I met him by likelihood. As quickly as I obtained my common trip, I went to my hometown with my pictures gear. My uncle, who lives in Khovd Province, was a driver who took international vacationers to their lodging. He stated, “A man such as you is coming from Japan. He’ll get off the airplane at the moment.” At the moment, I first met Tetsuro Shimizu. He made a 14-day journey to the western province of Mongolia, after rigorously planning his locations. I turned a great pal with him throughout my travels.
Did the uncommon alternative to climb one of many highest mountains in Mongolia with him depart an unforgettable reminiscence in your life?
He usually goes to the countryside to take photos of leopards and uncommon animals. After I climbed with him to get to Tsambagarav Mountain, his again damage, so I carried his baggage. When he stated, “I can’t go additional than that,” I left him there and went to the height. Now I really feel scared once I suppose that I went alone with out instruments, not understanding the dangers and risks.
Proper after I went to Tsambagarav, I had a want to climb Asralt Mountain, which is 2,799 meters above sea degree, the primary peak of the Khentii mountain vary. It’s stated that this mountain is the brink of climbers. Climbing requires a variety of energy, work and braveness from climbers. For me, it was not troublesome as a result of I climbed with knowledgeable staff of climbers.
What peak did you climb after climbing Asralt Mountain?
After researching so much about methods to climb Altai Tavan Bogd, I obtained in contact with climber N.Surenjav. He eagerly accepted my supply, however as a result of the staff was not fashioned at the moment, we postponed it and climbed the following 12 months. Mountaineers respectfully known as him Sengu. I nearly turned his assistant.
In 2017, he died whereas main a staff of mountaineers in Otgontenger Mountain. Fortunately, I used to be one of many 10 survivors. It was very arduous to see my buddies who had been strolling with me within the mountains crash in entrance of my eyes. That 12 months, my buddies, who climbed many mountains with me, stated that they might climb Elbrus. After I climb a excessive peak, I believe that I’m climbing with their desires.
Are you main the climbers’ staff because you turned the pinnacle of the Horizon Membership?
Lately, I’m working as a information with my membership members, so I’ve summitted many of the highest peaks in Mongolia. I’ve not but climbed Delgerkhaan and Deglii mountains, however I plan to go to them. I’m extra curious about seeing and experiencing the great thing about nature whereas climbing the mountain. I attempt to get details about the realm earlier than I attain the highest. After reaching the Khuiten Peak, I had the thought to go to the Caucasus Mountains and climb Elbrus, the grasp peak of Europe.
How attention-grabbing was your climb on Elbrus?
Mountaineer D.Otgonkhuu, bike and automobile sportsman B.Bat-Undral and I climbed Elbrus as a staff. That climb was led by D.Otgonkhuu as he has extra expertise than us. After that, I went to Aconcagua, the lord peak of the Andes in South America, as a result of I wanted to organize for the altitude to adapt to the climate and local weather to climb the 8,000-meter peak. I believe that these indescribable emotions and reminiscences wouldn’t have remained if I had not been pushed by my desires and interested in the mountains. Mountaineers should overcome their worry and muster braveness to problem themselves. That’s why we have to put together our mentality rigorously. At first, I used to be afraid to climb the height, however finally I obtained used to it as I joined the group of climbers. Mountaineers’ errors are the primary and final. There isn’t a going again, solely forwards if you happen to climb it. As a information, I heard many occasions that two out of three individuals who climbed collectively stated they might by no means climb once more. However they meet after a number of months and ask one another, “Do you need to climb the mountain?” Some folks suppose that in the event that they summitted, they achieved their aim. Mountain sports activities are dangerous. An important factor is to get down from the mountain safely.
Do you pray earlier than climbing?
After all. Like mountaineers, I pray earlier than climbing a mountain. I believe that the best meditation and faith is to respect the nation’s customs, mountains and water. Mountain climbers solely expertise actuality. There, information, training, roots and ethnicity don’t matter. The mountain is a subject of self-defeating competitors. It exhibits the character of individuals, how robust and resistant they’re. A number of the first-time climbers appear to be wanting to compete with others. After I speak to them after climbing a number of occasions, I really feel that their ideas modified. It’s wonderful how the mountains open folks’s eyes and provides them a easy means of taking a look at life.
You’re the first Mongolian mountaineer to climb Makalu Peak. How excited had been you earlier than heading to the highest?
It was my dream to climb the 8,000-meter peak. I used to be so excited earlier than heading to Makalu. Mountain sports activities takes massive sums of cash. My want to go to Makalu got here true with the assistance and participation of many individuals. I’m nonetheless pleased for the individuals who love the mountain and at all times help it.
Earlier than going to Makalu, the Mongolian mountaineers informed me, “We’ll see you quickly.” Worldwide climbers go there. It may be understood that we’re united by needs and pursuits. We don’t get too shut, however we keep up a correspondence. I obtained an enormous job from my buddies to get again to them, so I climbed very cleverly and calculated every little thing in order to not lose their hope. At the moment, a very powerful factor for me was to attain my aim.
Eight of the 14 peaks above 8,000 meters are in Nepal, proper?
Sure. Earlier than heading to mountains, we do a variety of analysis, nevertheless it’s totally different to see it in actuality. Final 12 months, Ch.Ariunzul, B.Gantulga and I set foot in Kathmandu, Nepal, and every of us set off to climb a special peak. B.Gantulga climbed Annapurna (8,091 meters) and Everest (8,848), Ch.Ariunzul Kanchenjunga (8,586) and I climbed Makalu (8,463). We now have to watch out and alert in order to not get distracted within the mountains. Errors are made when consideration is barely distracted. Due to this fact, climbers present much less emotion. Throughout the climb, it’s higher to go to the highest when the solar is shining within the morning and the wind is secure. We fortunately met in Kathmandu on Could 17.
What number of meters of top have an effect on climbers once they climb a peak?
Top modifications have an effect on us in a different way relying on our physique kind, how we’re used to the peak, and the way a lot coaching we had. Normally, the change in altitude above 4,000 meters begins to have an effect on the human physique. I eat barley flour and curds whereas climbing. It’s not straightforward to cook dinner within the chilly and windy excessive altitudes. I combine barley flour with ghee in sizzling water and make a slurry.
When is the very best time to climb 8,000-meter peaks?
It’s higher to climb the Himalayas peaks in Nepal, Tibet and China in spring, and the mountains situated in Pakistan in July. For instance, on Could 27, 2022, Honored Athlete G.Usukhbayar climbed Everest for the primary time. Then Honored Athlete B.Gangaamaa climbed the K2 mountain in Pakistan in July. At the moment, I’m coaching to climb Gasherbrum I. Two close by peaks rank eleventh and thirteenth on the earth. One of the best climate for climbing is July.
Does the Mongolian Dream 14 Venture embrace the Gasherbrum I peak that you’ll climb?
The mission was began with the aim of climbing 14 peaks above 8,000 meters. Gasherbrum I is among the peaks included within the mission. Out of 14 peaks with a top of 8,000 meters above sea degree, Mongolians reached seven of them. Significantly, G.Usukhbayar climbed Everest, B.Gangaamaa K2, Ch.Ariunzul Kangchenjunga, J.Byambasuren Lhotse (8,516), L.Boldbaatar Cho Oyu (8,201), L.Bayarsaikhan Manaslu (8,163) and B.Batbold Shisha Pangma (8,013). Among the many peaks that the Mongolians didn’t climb are Dhaulagiri (8,167), Nanga Parbat (8,125) Gasherbrum I (8,080), Gasherbrum II (8,068) and Broad Peak (8,047 meters). Mongolian climbers are planning to climb six of them.
You prefer to learn. What was the final e-book you got?
My different interest is studying. Most just lately, I learn books similar to “Mountains in My Coronary heart” and “Spirit System”. After I was a baby, one in every of my cousins used to learn so much. I learn many of the historic novels. On Youngsters’s Day, I purchased a historic novel about Chinggis Khaan with the cash to go to the provincial heart to rejoice. I’m curious about what information had been written primarily based on it, and I watch archeological finds and museums. I work as an ornithologist, so I research the chook species.
In 2013, there have been greater than 390 species of birds in Khar Us Lake, however now there are 510. My ardour for nature pictures made me an ornithologist.
[ad_2]
Source link
