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Vogue loves juxtaposition. So it’s hardly a shock that the hooded gown, nestled amid the paradox of a component designed to cover the wearer making them stand out, has risen to the highest of style’s trending lists.
The silhouette lately catapulted to fame on the Cannes Movie Pageant 2023 — that concludes at this time — when Aishwarya Rai Bachchan walked the carpet in a Sophie Couture robe with a large silver hood hooked up to the black corseted bodice. Whereas this look triggered the hooded robe to occupy mainstream Indian consciousness, it has hardly been the one one round. Mrunal Thakur walked the Cannes carpet in an ornate hooded outfit by Anamika Khanna whereas Anne Hathaway was labelled “mom” by social media feeds globally for her sequinned Versace gold hood at a latest Bulgari occasion.
First launched by Yves Saint Laurent on the runway in 1969, the hooded gown silhouette was popularised by Azzedine Alaia’s customized Bond-girl wardrobe for Grace Jones within the 80s. The latest trendy resurgence has seen it throughout worldwide homes like Saint Laurent, Alaia, Coperni, Halpern, and Schiaparelli to call a number of. Nearer house, designer Gaurav Gupta’s hardened shell hooded creations have drawn consideration, particularly in an electric-blue iteration worn by Cardi B for the Grammy Awards 2023.
So what’s it in regards to the silhouette that has discovered favour with celebrities throughout the globe? “I believe hooded silhouettes are gaining reputation proper now, particularly with celebrities as a result of they’re continuously making an attempt to redefine themselves,” says Lylah Shaw, founding father of the label Ituvana. “As a designer, I discover the technicality of designing and creating hooded attire thrilling as a result of it provides a component of thriller and edge to the outfit,” she provides in regards to the silhouette’s private enchantment to her. “I’ve experimented with incorporating hoods with conventional clothes like kaftans and kurtas as nicely and it immediately affords a singular and unconventional fashion.”
For Gaurav Gupta, the enchantment of the hooded gown lies in its drama. “Persons are in search of one thing new, totally different, and attention-grabbing. A whole lot of conventional outfits of many cultures had this silhouette because the touchstone of the drapes or hats folks used to put on and I additionally see the hood changing that whereas including the correct of latest age drama to it. It’s a brand new silhouette that’s being extensively accepted, which is thrilling for me proper now.”
Moreover, with the speedy and reliant rise of the style markets within the Center East and south-east Asia, hooded clothes are climate applicable and resonate with cultural values too.
The cultural join
“I believe hooded silhouettes present a way of nostalgia,” Lylah says. Hoods have been worn throughout cultures by the years, as markers of cultural identities and faith. This nostalgic enchantment has performed an enormous position within the silhouette’s reputation. “The act of masking one’s head with a hood carries a sure symbolism and evokes recollections of various instances and traditions. I believe celebrities are attempting to consider what an outfit means to them as an individual,” she provides.
Take, for instance, mannequin Bella Hadid paying homage to her Center Jap roots with a hooded gown at a latest look at Vogue Belief Arabia Awards. This fashion-forward intersection represents a celebration and normalisation of self-expression and cultural id.
A brand new-age sensuality
In a sartorial panorama populated with skin-tight silhouettes and bare attire, the hooded gown appears antithetical. Nevertheless, regardless of the surplus material on a hooded robe, they normally add a degree of attract to the wearer that the slinkiest of strappy attire don’t.
A significant component for that is the consolation a hooded gown affords the wearer. “Merely put, for those who really feel good in an outfit, you look good,” says Fatima Punjaabi, founding father of the label Mati. “Hooded attire have an ideal stability of an uncovered neckline and even shoulders whereas including thriller with the hood.”
There may be additionally the fluid aspect of the languidly draped materials that add to the sensuality. “Materials play a vital position. Prime quality silks and cottons drape and movement gracefully and improve the general sexual enchantment,” says Lylah.
IRL iterations
The silhouette’s reputation seamlessly transcends into the actual world. Straddling the road between couture glamour and high-street ease, informal variations of hooded attire have the potential to be a long-lasting development.
The development off the runways is a bit more relaxed, with shift attire and tunics adorned with a minimal hood. Mati’s breezy hooded tunics had been favoured by their prospects in accordance with Fatima. “The hooded tunic did very nicely for us. Folks aren’t utilizing the hood like within the robes with celebrities. It’s only a cool enjoyable aspect. With robes it’s elegant whereas with informal attire it’s extra sporty.”
The hood can be an understated extension of self-expression, making it a fascinating selection. “I believe it’s equally attention-grabbing for the customers to put on this off the runway – it’s simple and daring on the identical time and makes a correct style assertion,” concludes Gaurav.
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