Final October, I wished to flee the same old metropolis noise and the overcrowded fall hotspots in Japan. Don’t get me fallacious — I like Kyoto and Nikko — however I used to be craving one thing completely different. Autumn in Urabandai promised the quiet I used to be after, someplace I might hear the leaves crunch beneath my ft.
That’s after I heard about Urabandai, situated in Fukushima Prefecture. It is probably not the primary suggestion that seems on-line when trying to find “Japan’s finest autumn leaves,” however that’s precisely why it appealed to me.
I packed a small in a single day bag, rented a automotive from Koriyama station, and set off with a thermos stuffed with sizzling tea, no strict itinerary — only a obscure route saved on my telephone and a way of journey.
Into the Coronary heart of The Lake District

As I drove into the Bandai-Azuma Lake Line, the surroundings started to shift. Towering beech, rowan and maple timber arched over the street like a flaming tunnel of reds, golds, and oranges.
I pulled over close to Nakatsugawa Valley on a whim. I hadn’t deliberate to cease, however the best way the morning gentle hit the pink leaves above the gorge was too lovely to disregard. The valley spans about 10 kilometers and originates within the Azuma Mountain Vary. There’s a bridge there — Nakatsugawa Bridge — the place I stood for what felt like ages, listening to the river beneath and respiratory within the forest air.
Later that day, I discovered myself by Lake Akimoto, a spot I had completely to myself. Positioned east of Lake Hibara, it’s the quietest of the three Urabandai lakes. The water was so nonetheless I might see the mountain vary mirrored like a mirror. I made a easy lunch on a bench close to the remark deck — rice balls and tea — whereas watching leaves drift gently onto the floor.
The 5-Coloured Ponds

Akanuma Pond
The subsequent day, I went to Goshiki-numa, often known as the 5-Coloured Pond. I’d learn that the water modifications coloration based mostly on the climate and time of day — and it actually did. One second, it was deep blue; the following, a mysterious inexperienced. The path winds by way of volcanic terrain left by Mt. Bandai’s eruption, and each twist reveals a brand new pond — Bishamon, Aka, Ao, Benten, Midoro — every extra magical than the final.
What actually caught my consideration was the reflection of Mount Bandai in Bishamon-numa, framed by crimson timber.
Trendy Artwork within the Center of the Forest
That afternoon, I stumbled upon the Morohashi Museum of Trendy Artwork. I truthfully didn’t look forward to finding Salvador Dalí’s work in the midst of a nationwide park, however there it was — a European-style constructing crammed with work and sculptures, all set in opposition to a backdrop of fall colours. Slightly surreal, however good.
Above the Clouds: The Grandeco Ropeway
The subsequent morning, I rode the Grandeco Urabandai Ropeway, which climbs to round 1,390 meters within the Urabandai Highlands. I used to be early sufficient to catch the mist lifting from the mountains, and by the point I reached the highest, I used to be actually above the clouds. The whole valley was painted in coloration — I felt like I might see all of Fukushima from up there.
As a result of altitude, the leaves change earlier right here, so even in mid-October, a lot of the slope was vibrant with coloration. I sat close to the remark level, sipping espresso from a merchandising machine, watching hikers set off towards the Dekodaira Marsh Course — a brief path winding by way of beech forest and autumn marshland. Everybody moved quietly, as if even talking may disturb the stillness of the golden panorama.
The Wild Bandai-Azuma Skyline

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